Textile Group: AGM 2023 & Graduate Research Exchange

Henri Cosemans
University of Antwerp, 2022

In the past decade, MA-XRF was established as a valuable tool for the non-invasive technical study of paintings. So far, the potential for textile objects has not been explored. We focus on the investigation of an early 19^th century painted textile banner belonging to the royal Saint George's archers Guild of Rijkevorsel, Belgium and demonstrate how the ensuing insights steered our knowledge of its material history. Historical guild books suggested that the banner was purchased in 1807, meaning that the banner under investigation was manufactured in or before 1807.

During technical research, several factors surfaced that rendered this assumed date doubtful. The banner appeared an assembly of several parts that were produced separately. The original central medallion was cut out of the banner and replaced with the current depiction of Saint George.

One hypothesis is that the banner was previously religious banner, recycled and adapted into a guild banner. These finding questions whether the passage found in the archives refers to this specific banner, or rather to an entirely different, now missing object? MA-XRF imaging supplied additional information on the composition of the banner.

Relative dating based on historical research pertaining to the use of different pigments allows us to propose dates for the different parts of the banner.

Tabitha Gibbs
University of Glasgow, 2023

My presentation focuses on my upcoming MPhil dissertation research. I will be sharing my planned investigation into the use of volatile binding media (VBMs) in textile conservation, including experimental testing of the usable dwell time, and sublimation rates, of two VBMs, cyclododecane (CDD) and menthol. While VBMs are regularly used by textile conservators, most frequently as a temporary protective barrier, there is still limited research on the interaction between CDD and objects’ surfaces and little guidance as to how long CDD is effective as a barrier, or the time it takes to fully sublime. The research has two elements. Firstly, I will carry out an international survey to establish how VBMs are currently used by textile conservators. Secondly, I will perform experimental testing by applying CDD, menthol and mixtures of the two to textile substrates to document how sublimation rates vary under different conditions. By including mixtures of CDD and menthol, this study hopes to propose a method of combining the advantageous properties of both substances.

My research will assist textile conservators in making informed decisions around the appropriateness of CDD or menthol as easily accessible temporary barrier layers or consolidants for treatment. It will allow them to estimate sublimation periods more accurately to tailor the use of VBMs to the requirements of specific objects.

Mirjam Kaufmann
Abegg-Stiftung, 2021

650 years after Siegfried von Westerburg (Archbishop of Cologne from 1274-1297) was buried in the Bonner Münster, his grave was opened during excavations in 1947, and several textile fragments were found. Shortly after the excavation, the textile fragments were restored in the Textilmuseum Krefeld. The textiles were examined in the textile conservation studio of the Abegg-Stiftung from November 2020 to October 2022. For the first time since they were found in 1947, all fragments were given full technical examination and were being mounted for the exhibition in the LVR LandesMuseum Bonn.

My master's thesis “Die Borten aus dem Grab von Siegfried von Westerburg (†1297) im Bonner Münster. Untersuchung, Dokumentation und Erarbeitung eines Vermittlungsbeitrags“ focused on part of the textile fragments –17 tablet woven bands and 2 samit woven bands – which I examined and documented.

After giving an introduction to the main findings of the technical examination of the tablet woven bands the presentation will focus on the second part of the thesis: Based on the results from the examination, an educational video was created to be played in the exhibition space. The video is based on pattern drawings and the reweaving of a tablet woven band, to allow better understanding of the technique and condition of the tablet woven bands by the public.

Gracile Roxas
University of Glasgow, 2023

This poster presents the conservation treatment of a late 19^th to early 20^th century christening robe, made of undyed cotton and decorated with lace and whitework embroidery, and the test results that guided the procedure. Caught in a house fire in 2018, the robe suffered discolouration and brittleness from thermal oxidation, structural damage, and accumulation of soot and other foreign particles. It also had a deformed plastic hanger that melted, resolidified and stuck to the fabric. Extensive testing involved identification of the plastic, and determining its melting parameters and solubility in a range of solvents. The hanger was separated from the fabric mechanically while applying heat, making it possible to wet clean and introduce stitched support to the yoke and sleeves. The treatment resulted in significant reduction of discolouration and soiling, stabilisation of damaged and weak areas, re-establishment of the robe’s three-dimensional shape and improvement of its overall appearance.

Magdalena Żmuda
Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw, 2022

The aim of the practical part of Master Thesis was conservation and restauration of lady’s sunshade from the beginning of the 20^th century from Muzeum Narodowe Ziemi Przemyskiej.

The object is best described as moving and spatial form characteristic to this kind of items. Due to used materials in the object and their state of preservation, plan of conservation work was required for individual elements. Sunshade structure is divided into two parts – steel frame with cover made from silk black and cream-colored fabrics, decorated with cotton guipure lace and wooden handle decorated with brass and plastic elements.

To determine creation date of object, specialist tests were conducted – SEM-EDS test on silk fabrics and FTIR-ART test on the plastic part. All elements of the sunshade were cleaned by individually selected methods. The most damaged textile elements were cleaned using agar gel (some mixed with sodium bicarbonate) and then bonded by textile lining method.

The conservation work on the sunshade was straitened due to specificity and form of this object thus part of conservation treatment needed to be performed on open frame. As a result of conducted conservation and restoration work, sunshade regained opening capability thus fashion accessory function was restored.